Engine/bay work

My mate Rob the welder arrives tomorrow to put the plates in for the Zetec mounts so I addressed a couple of things on the engine/bay. The RMD Rally Design gauges I have need a sender for the oil pressure gauge. Basically you run the oil warning light and sensor from the car loom and you run a pressure gauge separately.

In the picture below the plug on the right is for the oil light, centre hole is for the engine mount and then to the left of that there is a torx screw, you need to remove this, then take your sender with 1/8th npt adaptor and fit to the block, I used some ptfe tape and a tiny bit of thread lock

Adaptor fitted

Flywheel now torqued up to 112 nm and the spigot bearing fitted to assist in the Rwd set up of an engine from a Fwd car. Note the oil seal on the bearing faces the gearbox if you are about to do this yourself.

I got the RetroFord cover plate to cover the exposed/open areas between the flywheel and the Type 9. I made one for my zero last time but I was never very pleased with it.

One of the major savings along with the ecu and TB's that I am making on this build is the water rail. Ive used the Raceline previously but they are £300 plus £80 for the GBS pipe kit. Lots of people have reported over heating problems as the Raceline one moves the location of the thermostat away from the engine block. IMHO thats a lot of money to spend and then to risk the life of your engine on.

Ive started designing my own one and have spent £22 on 1/2 a metre of 32mm stainless tubing, £11 on two Triumph stage rail clips and £9 on silicone tubing so far. I only have the piccy below for now but I dont think I'll be running it over the exhaust and will probably hide it away on one of the chassis side rails.